Print Pattern | Print Instructions

Instructions:

• Print pattern. Cut pieces and glue them on some hard paper (I use old folders). After they are dry cut them out.
  (This way your patterns do not rip and are sturdy as you trace)
• Figure out your layout before tracing, making sure you have enough fabric.
• Trace patterns onto fabric.
• For pieces that need 2 cut 1 reverse. Trace one side, flip and trace again.
• All pieces are sewn right sides together
• If you are not string jointing, don't forget to make the joint holes!
• Cut pieces with sharp scissors making sure you cut the backing not the mohair.
• All pieces are sewn right sides together.

Body:
Sew the dart at the bottom of the body by placing right sides together along cut. Once you have done both pieces place them together and sew all the way around by using a backstitch, making sure you leave the neckng and backng for turning.

Head:
Sew two pieces together from point B to point A. Match point B on the head gusset to the point B on the head and the point C (on head piece) to the point C (on gusset piece). Pin or baste the head gusset on and sew. I prefer to sew from point B to point C, and the same for the other side. Leave neckfor stuffing and jointing.

Arms:
Sew paw pad onto inner arm piece making sure curve of arm are facing the right direction. Place inner arm and outer arm pieces together and sew around leavingng to turn. Place leg pieces together and sew from toe to theng in the back of left piece. Then sew from heal tong, leaving bottomfor footpad. Match marks on footpad with leg piece and sew around.

Ears:
Sew 2 pieces right side together making sure you leave aning to turn.

Turning:
I prefer to use Tweezers for turning my miniatures as hemostats can ruin the fabric. Click here for detailed instructions on turning limbs.

Assembling Bear

Stuffing Head:
Stuff the head firmly using polyester fiberfill. Make sure you stuff the nose firmly as it will collapse when you go to embroider it later. I use a small ball of damp excelsior in my bears nose for a more stable nose.

Tip: it is easier with miniatures to do the face before you put the body together. This way you can hide the threads from the nose and ears in the neck jointng! It is also easier to hold the head by itself while sewing.

Ears:
Pin ears in place first.  Curve forwards to give the natural look.  Keep moving the ears around until you are satisfied with "the look" then sew them in place. Anchor the thread behind the ear.  Use the ladder stitch working top to bottom on the back of the ear and then up the front. Preserve the curve of the ear as you stitch.

Noses:
Clip away a small area where you plan to put the nose. Stitch an outline of your nose and then fill in with satin stitch.  Keep the tension as even as possible. Cover the whole area with satin stitch several times until you have achieved the look you want.

Eyes: (glass eyes)
Positioning eyes takes time.  One easy way to use eyes on a wire with no loop.  Simply cut the wire to a convenient pin length.  Lightly press the eyes into position and keep on repositioning until you achieve the look and expression you want.

Take the trial eyes out.  Use an awl at the point of entry and make a hole wide enough to take the loop on the eye. Cut a length of doubled dental floss or nylon upholstery thread that will be long enough to pass through the head and leave room to tie off. Loop the thread through the loop on the eye and tie the eye at approximately the middle of the thread.  Double knot to make more secure. Thread one of the double ends onto an extra strong long needle.  Push the needle through the head until it comes out at the base of the head just above the neck disk on the opposite side.  OR until it comes out at the middle point behind the opposite ear. Take the needle off the thread and pass the other doubled tail of thread until it comes out at about 1/4" from where the other thread had been pulled through. Pull the threads tightly and knot them securely.  The pressure will pull the eye into the head and create a natural eye socket.  Bury the thread inside the head. Repeat for the other eye.

Eyes with Onyx Beads: When using onyx bead eyes make an eye socket before putting the eye in. Use the same colour thread as your fabric and I suggest you use a strong thread such as upholstery thread or double strands as single thread will most likely break, this is very frustrating!

Some artists like to do the eye sockets back and forth from each eye area. This is great for bigger bears but I find the above method is the best for miniature bears. It helps hide the holes of the onyx beads!

Jointing Head:
Insert the joint in the neckng. Run a gather stitch around the neckng and sew the joint into the head. I use a double, upholstery thread. Place the cotter pin into theng you left at the top of the body. In theng you left in the back of the body, place the joint disk on the cotter pin. Using needle nose pliers grasp one side of the cotter pin and curl down, repeat on the other side. Make sure the cotter pin rests on the disk.

Stuffing Limbs:
Stuff the limbs making sure you stuff all around top of the limbs. Close with a ladder stitch. Hint: make sure you stuff your paw pads and footpads firmly as you can't fix this once the limb has been stuffed without taking all the stuffing out!

String Jointing:
The limbs will still move but should not be twirled the entire way around.  One method for string jointing is show below.  Just follow the arrows for the travel of your needle.  Use dental floss or really strong upholstery thread.

"Take a stitch through the inside of one limb, thread needle through the body - out the other side - through the inside of the other limbs - back through the body and out.  Tie threads securely and bury the threads"

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